My Libyan Student

In late 2001 I moved to Lisbon, Portugal in search of new adventures, a stronger connection to my roots, and to basically roll the dice and see where life would take me.  Like many children of Portuguese parents who return to Portugal in search of work, I ended up an English teacher at a large corporate school outside Lisbon.  This particular area was also where many multinational corporations, embassies, and comfortable retirees were located.  These were the sources of the often entertaining and very interesting students that sat in my classes.

One particular gentleman came to my attention when several other teachers told me there was a middle eastern man who spoke no English and no Portuguese and was therefore very hard to communicate with. I was immediately curious about both the person and the challenge.  For several months I’d also been privately and rather lazily been learning to write Arabic letters, I wondered if this might not be a chance to get some critique of my work.

The day came where I saw Sadiq* on my roster, he was going to be a student in my little class.  In that tiny glass walled room we went through the usual lesson and as others had warned me, he couldn’t follow much compared to other students.  I did what I could to communicate and one point I tried to use French which, to his great pleasure, worked!  As class ended Sadiq seemed to light up as he explained that he is Libyan and he works at the embassy but that he speaks neither Portuguese nor English.  He’s pleased I speak French and asks me some questions he wasn’t able to ask earlier about the lesson. After that I decided to further break some ice by asking him what he thinks of my notebook filled with Arabic letters and words that a toddler could probably write with ease.  He laughs. He points to the page and he points to me and in his limited engish he happily exclaims “you?” Yes. Me.

Protest
Photo by Steve Rhodes on Flickr

In the months that followed that meeting Sadiq’s English progressed to a very encouraging level. We no longer used French and he would even write up some short Arabic exercises for me to try.  On the occasions where I would be taking a break in the lounge he would sit next to me and talk about how things work in Libya.  He knew I was curious, from the climate to the traditions, he always seemed to have something new to explain.  One memorable time he joined me sitting with a female colleague who had just been outside smoking. He seemed concerned and went on to explain in his English “In Libya, women no smoke. She is beautiful, she is strong, and she doesn’t put terrible things in her body.” My colleague was of course not impressed and replied, “What about men, it is ok for men?” Sadiq frowned and said “Men are terrible and dirty, so they do these things.”  The answer wasn’t great by many standards, but as always I appreciated Sadiq speaking from the heart and showing me what I imagined others might say if I were sitting in Tripoli.

Strangely enough for the next months Sadiq would often invite me to embassy parties and cultural events. I would be introduced as “the professor” and the consulate officials of Algeria or Tunisia would greet me warmly every time.  On occasion there would be an example of Libyan culture or folklore on display and Sadiq would walk me through each item and each tradition. I’d leave the events with my head filled with stories told in broken english and pamphlets about how the Libyan economy works.

One day at an event there were copies of Gaddafi’s infamous little green book, which made me laugh as I thought about Mao’s little red book.  Sadiq asked if I wanted one, but he didn’t have a kind word to say about it. He immediately moved on to a book of photos about Libya. He proudly pointed to the cityscape of Tripoli, the beautiful coastline, images of large scale agriculture.  He was extra adamant about a photo of what I think was a female police officer, I remember him saying “In Libya, Mark, woman can do everything. Not like other places where they don’t let.” I was still processing that moment when he turned to the last photo which showed Gaddafi reviewing a military parade with  an array of rocket launchers and tanks. After so many pages of enthusiastic description he pointed and said “this is not so nice. I don’t like this,” and closed the book with some disappointment.

I never asked more about the government and how he felt about it.  The country he taught me about was filled with great stories and great beauty.  Indeed I decided for myself that as a Libyan in that era it might be  safer to avoid or ignore the government and focus on the beautiful things as much as possible.

In the fall of 2002 I left Lisbon for Amsterdam, but I would return for occasional visits and meet him for tea. Eventually he mentioned being recalled to Libya and realized I would probably never see him again.  He insisted that one day I would come visit his country and he would be my host.  He told me about his wife and children waiting for him back home.

That was over 6 years ago.  Today we sit home and we watch some kind of revolution happening in Libya. 40 years of a mentally disturbed dictator are not totally over yet and the trauma will last far beyond his days.  I watch the videos and the photos of street battles and I wonder how Sadiq and his family are doing. I hope they are safe. I hope they have a better future ahead of them.  Who knows, maybe years from now you’ll be reading on this site about my reunion with Sadiq at Liberation Square in Tripoli.


*Not his real name.

2 Days to Uganda Elections

Poll Worker
Polling Station Worker, Uganda by: flickrmember peprice

We are less than 2 days from presidential elections in Uganda, a place that already is regularly left out of the front pages and trending topics in many parts of the world.  When you add to its usual lack of coverage the fact that right now whatever international news is getting attention is focused on any and all protests in Algeria, Libya, Iran, Yemen, Iraq or Bahrain, it is a bad time for anyone that wants to hear more from Uganda.

Myself in my own work, though I say I focus on under reported news, Uganda and Ugandan elections are topics that I have not touched on often enough.  Still, with a president election this weekend, what I do know is that there is a president (Museveni) who has been in power for more than 25 years.  Regardless if he would be a perfectly charming and benevolent president, 25 years qualifies as too long and a matter of suspicion for this citizen journalist. After having eliminated limits on how many terms a president can serve, the Ugandan leader has earned similar criticism and concern in his home country and among the international community.

In the lead up to this election, my sources on the ground have warned of fraud. They’re concerned with how easily it could happen, especially if the government can manipulate final vote counts. There is a need for eyes on the ground, for reporting, and observing. It seems anyone involved it trying to do so is going to have a major challenge on their hands. This challenge deserves the same kind of support we’ve seen pouring out over the past few weeks for Tunisia and Egypt.

One place I will be looking throughout this process, besides the various voices on twitter, is on the UgandaWatch site. UW is an Ushahidi report-mapping system where Ugandans can submit, via sms or web, reports about what they are seeing wherever they are in the country.  This will help, though it doesn’t tell the complete story, to understand what is really going on compared to whatever the office of the president may tell us.

Let’s hope it is a good weekend for voters, journalists and election observers in Uganda.

Military Coverup of Female Deaths

Photo by US Army Korea - IMCOM on flickr

A growing number of women have, according to the military, died in non-combat situations. When grieving families ask for information about how their loved one died, they are frequently met with little detail, vague stories, and often kept from knowing what happened all together.

Investigative journalist John Lasker has looked into case after case of female military personel who have died non-combat deaths over the past few years. With each story he finds mounting evidence that there something more going on among the ranks of women in the US armed forces.

You can read his full article and help support his ongoing research on spot.us. On tomorrow’s edition on citizenreporter.org, John Lasker will be my guest and we will discuss the cases and his research into the larger issue of sexual violence against women in the military.

45 to 60 Days

The world is fixated on Egypt for the last 7 days and for good reason. However elsewhere in the world things are also changing in different ways and it is important that good journalists and critical minds don’t all converge in one place.

Just over two weeks ago much of the attention in the international press was focused on Tunisia, again, understandable considering the powerful and historically breathtaking images from the streets of Tunis. The departure of the president/dictator was a great victory for anyone who favors an open and democratic Tunisia. The event is hailed as the inspiration of Egypt and possibly a growing list of nations where iron fisted rulers are suddenly scared of what fate may await them.

You’ve heard about these things, but what of Tunisia since January 11? An acting President and a whole new slate of ministers, including a political party and cabinet member that had been banned and jailed under the tyrannical rule of Ben Ali. According to the constitution, in 45 to 60 days from the moment the acting president steps in, an election must be held. At this point no date has been set, but that doesn’t deter the questions of who will run, what parties will come forward, how will they work together in an eventual government, and what will be their program. I‘ve heard analysts say left of center, or islamic left, but I still wonder how it will all play out.

In the meantime there is word of many new freedoms, especially when it comes to the press. This is of course a great and essential development, but it is important in such a critical aftermath of a revolution, when the world’s short attention span has moved on, that critical and concerned observers not sit back and assume all will be well. Part of what ensures this process really takes place and has long lasting value, is that we keep asking questions, and keep up the pressure.

Complex Answers

Berlin, 2010“You want it to be one way…” as the character Marlo Stanfield once put it. When we look out at the world or when we look to our various sources of information about what is happening to ourselves and to others, we seek explanations.  Explanations into how and why, into who wronged who, and to what is a solution if there is a solution. Some like the long detailed explanations, while more seem to want summaries, short versions, and just the latest info.  Often times, the more complex an issue is, the harder it is for us to grasp, and the lower the desire to take the time and energy to understand it.

From there come the simple labels, the us versus them, the quest to find who to blame, and the practice visualizing what side we want to be on. Liberals and conservatives; pro-life and anti-abortion; pro-war and anti-war; socialist and capitalist; hippy and yuppy; the list is far longer and spans the globe.  Rare is the individual who can resist finding themselves in such a group, even more rare is one who can avoid being placed in such a group by others.

Why does this happen? The quest to simplify it all perhaps. The need to take a complicated issue and break it into basic parts in order to decide what we believe is to be done about it.  This simplification is sometimes done after extensive or ongoing research, and sometimes it is done based on un-empirical influences.  Whatever side you take, whatever facts you choose to use, in the end you can look at a conflict and say “this is where I am on this.”  From there you can either sleep soundly, or spend your waking hours fighting like hell to communicate and bring to fruition the resolution you wish to see.

I thought of this phenomenon alot while I was in Afghanistan. But I think of it anytime I visit the US or even right here in the Netherlands as I watch socio-political debates on TV.  Some Afghans will tell you they don’t want any foreign military in their country, but if you keep talking to them they will tell you they do want foreign military assistance.  Some Americans who have read through the proposed new healthcare plan will tell you they don’t want this plan but they do want a universal healthcare plan.  An experienced Dutch journalist working in Afghanistan can tell you she is in favor of the Dutch sending people to help with keeping and improving peace in Afghanistan but she will also tell you she’s not in favor of just any kind of Dutch involvement.

Yet it is more common, or perhaps just more visible in today’s massive public sphere, for people to tell you it is one way or the other in any of the situations listed above.  Take most any conflict in any country these days, you’ll find a loud group of people saying it is one way, and a loud group of people saying it is the other.  Anyone who points out the complexity and tries to explain it is somehow considered not as legitimate, perhaps because they’re often not waving a banner in front of governments or standing in front of a camera on prime time television.

One of the great dangers of our time, as I have seen in my short life and extensive travels, is this push to simplify everything so that it all fits in a box or a category and we don’t have to learn and appreciate the complexity of what is happening around us.

New Day in Tunisia

Photo from Tunis via AFPFriends around the world have been writing to me, urging me to cover the issue of the demonstrations and now revolution in Tunisia for some weeks now.  I’ve responded that I’m watching it all unfold like everyone else; in mainstream media, on twitter, on activist blogs in and around the country.  But as for covering it myself, I didn’t have anything new or helpful to add at the time.  Maybe now that the amazing has happened.. I will be able to look into these extraordinary events in more detail, by talking to individuals who have been instrumental in making it happen.

For now, I leave it to Global Voices and their great correspondants around the world, to explain the new day that has come in Tunisia.  Today’s headline from one blogger: Tunisia: Celebrations Welcome the End of Ben Ali’s Rule. (follow the link for details)

One more dictator down, a victory for the people of Tunisia and the world.