ctrp363 Traveling the Former Yugoslavia

to Sarajevo / by flickr member martijn.munneke

Emmanuel and Kyle of 2600 are experienced world travelers who specialize in going where other people never want or think to.  Last year they set off to travel though ALL the former Yugoslav states (and Albania). From trains to buses to taxi’s in the middle of nowhere, their trip was full of unpredictable moments of joy and confusion, much of which could be heard on their radio program.

During the latest edition of the Chaos Communication Congress in Berlin, Emmanuel and Kyle joined me to record this extended podcast to retail the story of their travels and the lessons learned.

bmtv30 Final Slovenia Vlogging (p2)

Part 2 of my vlogging in Slovenia. This time from high above Ljubljana as well as lost somewhere in the south of the country. Folk music as always. And this is my goodbye to a country that I hereby love.

bmtv29 On to Slovenia, Part 1

To further tempt all ye who have been emailing and commenting (thanks by the way) here is part one of my slovenia vlog. Enjoy the folk music.. as you know, I love it.

Must I leave the Dragon Bridge?

As I negociated the acquisition of some bananas at Ljubljana’s central market, the old man of the stand got very excited, apparently because he felt there was other fruit that deserved my attention.

He was especially insistant on these round fruits the color of peaches yet also resembling a tomato. He kept pointing to them and pointing to me and saying “Spanja”.. to which I smiled and pointed to myself and said “Portugal” (since its so nearby to the fruit). He laughed and furthered the exchange by pointing to his own chest and proudly proclaiming: Bosnia… Bosnia!

And so it goes in this city which I like to think I’ve grown to understand just a tiny bit.

The neighborhood that I regret not having spent even more time in, is that surrounding the infamous prison-turned-hostel-turned-cultural center called “Celica”. Anyone with a creative bone in their body seems to gravititate towards it. On several nights these past few days, I’ve sat with a new friend who comes from Melbourne. In town for a improve-theater festival, which sounds very interesting and Im not just saying that because she’s likely reading this post.

Tonight we walked around the block from Celica and stumbled upon something that can’t be properly communicated through words. Some would call it, a squatter’s paradise, I think one swedish guy referred to it as a free area.. whatever you want to call it.. all I saw was wall to wall art, painted, sculpted, or just simply hanging from the walls of the buildings. It was so impressive and so fascinating I decided to save my pictures for the daylight. So as we head back to the train station tomorrow to make our way BACK to Venice (story on that tomorrow perhaps), there will be a brief photosession at this place just beyond the beloved Celica.

And while I’m strolling with a camera… other people like the King of Jordan are pointing out some pretty undeniable realities.

bm169 Ljubljana and a Tourists History of the Region

Arch Duke Ferdinand, Austria-Hungarian Empire, Serbian Nationalism, and how exactly did things end up like this in this part of the world? Richard and I ask these questions and I try to answer them, all in this podcast from Ljubljana.

BBC’s History of the former Yugoslavia

Music:

Just google Slovenian Folk Music, I’m working on buying a disc or two.

What a Difference Ljubljana

What a difference a day makes. A day in Ljubljana I mean.

After arriving in the dark and booked into whatever we could find last minute and getting completely baffled by the complex bus system, it seemed like very little could go right during our stay here.

But then I woke up this morning, 24 hours later, in the most beautiful and simple and clean-fresh smelling bed and breakfast. There is this lovely Slovenian woman who pops into the living room every now and then, makes me tea, and asks how my day has been and what Ive seen. She finds it funny that so much time is spent on my laptop, but then, she doesn’t realize that Im a podjournalist and there’s not vacation from such a trade.. it flows through my veins. Not to mention, wifi is so abundant in Ljubljana as compared to any italian city or portuguese city.. this place could teach Europa a thing or two about technology!

This city is fanastic. It is small.. very charming… very quiet.. and even outside the city center.. people seem quite kindhearted.

On the morning we awaited the bus to get the hell out of that racket they called a hostel, I noticed a paint truck had sped by and one big can of white paint had fallen over and broken onto the pavement. The driver didn’t notice, and what followed was a scene that reminded me of Newark for some reason: the first few cars slow down, and attempt to drive around it, causing all kinds of dangerous driving.

Here’s what I notice: an old woman crossing the street, sees the paint container, and without flinching, starts dragging it across the street and out of traffic. She did it with such a style, that to me screamed “this is my community, I saw this and I can do something about it.” For some reason I remembed times in Newark where something like this would happen and people would just drive around it and never would anyone try to solve the problem. Maybe Im being too critical of my city-of-birth.

Five minutes later, across the street at another bus stop, an elderly slovenian man falls down while getting off the bus. Lots of busy people didn’t seem to notice, but every person around him turns and stops to check on him. They were almost competing to help him in some way.. 5, 6 people all gathered around. picking up his stuff, putting an arm around him. I could tell they were strangers.. and yet.. another scene that I found very charming and perhaps telling of Slovenian city life.

Who knows, maybe I see what I want to see… but I love this place. And now I wish to meet a Slovenian girl who sweeps me off my feet.. or vica-versa.. cause let me just say, they are beautiful in such a cool and independent way.