Hua Hin, Royal Holidays

Originally I was coming to the beachside getaway known as Hua Hin in hopes of being closer to an ongoing conflict further south in this province, between a fishing village and the steel corporation that wants to built a smelter on their shores.

However due to my compulsive buying of a ticket to Cambodia, my Hua Hin and subsequent time in Prachuat Kiri Kahn province will be cut short and Ill head back to Bangkok in less than 24 hours.  But I still managed to get down here with a little help from the magic of couch surfing and the international website for people to find and offer places to stay for free, known as hospitalityclub.org.

As it did when I went to New Orleans and met lil Robin, or when I stayed in Heidelberg and stayed with Jenny, the magic of the internet has once again led me to meet a very special human and I’m geatly enjoying my time here with him and his family.  An exciting mix of international and thai culture, the highlight of the house has to be the 7 ear old girl who runs around practicing her english and making the cutest faces at everyone.  She has leant me a two of her finest stuffed animals, the crocodile and the teddy bear, who she recommended I place on my bed.

Hua Hin is an interesting place. Not unique really, as many many tourists can and do easily get here, 3 hours south of Bangkok.  It is more famous for being the vacation place for the royal family.  Talk about loved, Thai people seem crazy about the royal Family.  As a critical mind and a staunch rebel, I have a hard time understanding it.  Every monday there seem to be people wearing all yellow as some sign of royal day, a show of support I guess, for the king.  Looking out the window of the extra-cramped minivan I rode down here in, there are photos of the royal family everywhere, especially right smack over the highway or on random billboards.  It seems like one of those VERY Thai things.

So after a brief visit to the beach, an elephant farm, and other tourist enemities, I will return to Bangkok, as truth be told, I’m gearing up for my 4 day visit to Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

bm264 Prachatai – Alternative Media in Thailand

Alternative media is alive and well in Thailand, especially at the offices of Prachatai.com.  I spent the morning with the staff of this Thai alternative news source discussing what the big issues are for Thailand and their experience running such a media organization.

We discuss:

  • The overall media landscape in Thailand
  • Government control, economic influence
  • MY experience with the Royal Anthem
  • Censorship
  • The constitution
  • Labor and Unions
  • Environmentalism in Thailand
  • Funding

Music:

  • Eddie Vedder – Rise
  • Herbie Hancock – Tea Leaf Prophecy

Portuguese in Bangkok, 500 years later

When I started living in Amsterdam, I always felt an affinity for the Portuguese-Jewish synagogue. Reading those Portuguese names on the walls and reading the story of the Portuguese-JEws who settled and prospered in the city, I wondered if many many generations ago, perhaps my family was of this group, only they converted to Catholicism.  Regardless if it happened or not, my sense of history gives me the romantic feeling that I am, at least now, connected to those Portuguese, doing similar to what they did, (for different reasons of course) hundreds of years later. Here in Bangkok, as the boat cruised down the Chao Praya river, a river that snakes in so many directions with its creamy green water, a friend points out a church on the horizon. Lit up by bright lights against the night sky, a Thai friend rushes towards me “Mark, my father says that is a Portuguese church… Santa Cruz.. from a long time ago when Bangkok has Portuguese community and Portuguese are given titles by King.” I look accross the water and I see the wooden church and the tall steeple.  A little piece of Portugal way out here. It was back in  1511,  when the Portuguese became the first Europeans to land in this region.  They were met with mixed reactions throughout southeast Asia, and somehow were able to get on the king’s good side.  It may have been their usefulness as trade partners, eventually becoming an important source for weapons and ammunition. I like to think it was good manners and mutual respect that made the relationship possible. (wishful thinking) From there, some missionaries were given permission by the Royal court to build their convent and live in this little corner of Bangkok.  This would eventually become the only structure that survived over time, a souvenir from the days when Portugal was an important partner of Thailand. Amazing? No… not amazing. A reminder in fact, that everything is connected, and while the reasons may be difference, 500 years later, Portuguese still come to Bangkok and they’re still given a very kind welcome by the Thai people.

bmtv85 From Chatachuk Park, Bangkok

It is never easy to pull out a camera and record a message while sitting alone in public.  It is even harder when you’re alone, wastern, and tall, sitting in a park talking into a camera in your left hand.  The following vlog entry is about my initial impressions after wandering slightly lost near the victory monument and chatachuk market areas of Bangkok.

Weekend Market

Besides working, I’m more of a tourist than a journalist these days, and I’ll try to do something about that immediately.  There is a vlog entry coming up when I wake. For now I pass you this flickr video clip of how I spent much of my day today, walking the norrow aisles of the Chatuchak Weekend Market, a very large and impressive maze of merchants and people alike.

PS – To anyone who sent the link, emailed, or worried about my presence at the demonstrations today in Bangkok, you might be relieved to know that I got lost and never arrived where I had hoped to arrive to observe the demonstrations.  If I get another chance I will try again, and I will approach with caution so worry not!

Said Utah, I did not die

Bangkok posting will be postponed today as the world lost a very special person just days ago.  My idol, inspiration, and historical guide in this life, Utah Phillips, has died.  Words cannot describe how this man and his music shaped and shape my thinking and my understanding of who I am and where I’m going.

Utah did so much that meant such a great deal to me. His recordings are things I go back to almost once a month, stories, songs, history lessons.  So the news may say that my friend Utah Phillips has died, but I know better… and to illustrate and pay the highest respect to him, Ill quote my most favorite labor poem and song, which Utah so often sang:

Joe Hill

words by Alfred Hayes
music by Earl Robinson

I dreamed I saw Joe Hill last night,
Alive as you and me.
Says I “But Joe, you’re ten years dead”
“I never died” said he,
“I never died” said he.

“In Salt Lake, Joe,” says I to him,
him standing by my bed,
“They framed you on a murder charge,”
Says Joe, “But I ain’t dead,”
Says Joe, “But I ain’t dead.”

“The Copper Bosses killed you Joe,
they shot you Joe” says I.
“Takes more than guns to kill a man”
Says Joe “I didn’t die”
Says Joe “I didn’t die”

And standing there as big as life
and smiling with his eyes.
Says Joe “What they can never kill
went on to organize,
went on to organize”

From San Diego up to Maine,
in every mine and mill,
where working-men defend their rights,
it’s there you find Joe Hill,
it’s there you find Joe Hill!

I dreamed I saw Joe Hill last night,
alive as you and me.
Says I “But Joe, you’re ten years dead”
“I never died” said he,
“I never died” said he.